by Janice Anderssen
This pergola swing is perfect for lazy days in the garden. At first glance it might seem like a difficult project, but once you get started you will see how easy it is to make.
Make the swing using PAR pine and set aside a couple of days – perfect weekend project – to make your own pergola swing.
After assembling your pergola swing, you have the choice to stain and seal or paint in your choice of colour to make a statement piece for the garden.
YOU WILL NEED
2 of 32 x 67 x 1220mm pine – front / back seat frame
4 of 32 x 67 x 460mm pine – sides / supports seat frame
2 of 32 x 67 x 500mm pine – ends seat back
1 of 32 x 67 x 1086mm pine – seat back rail
9 of 20 x 67 x 383mm pine – seat back slats
2 ox 32 x 67 x 200mm pine – arms end
2 of 32 x 67 x 520mm pine – arms top
7 of 20 x 67 x 1220mm pine – seat slats
4 of 32 x 67 x 2000mm pine – uprights
2 of 32 x 67 x 1220mm pine – base side beams
2 of 32 x 67 x 1676mm pine – front / back top beams
2 of 44 x 44 x 656mm pine – top side beams
8 of 32 x 67 x 380mm pine – angled supports
1 of 32 x 67 x 1676mm pine – centre beam
2 of 20 x 94 x 784mm pine – side trim
2 of 20 x 94 x 2076mm pine – front / back trim
8 of 32 x 32 x 1124mm pine – roof slats
4.5 x 50mm screws
5 x 60mm screws
Exterior wood glue
8 steel eye hooks, nuts and washers
2 steel S-hooks
6 locking carabiners
Drill / Driver plus assorted bits
Kreg Pockethole Jig
Tape measure and pencil
Mitre saw, jigsaw or tablesaw
Orbital sander plus 120- and 240-grit sanding pads
Sand all the cut pieces smooth before you start the assembly process.
Make the seat
1. Drill 2mm countersunk pilot holes to assemble the seat frame
as shown, using 50mm screws and exterior wood glue.
2. Secure the ends and back rail onto the seat frame as shown
using a Kreg Pockethole Jig.
3. Drill 2 pocketholes in the top and bottom of each back slat.
Place the slats in the centre of the top rail and seat frame back,
spacing them evenly along the length with a 48mm gap
between each slat. Secure with wood glue and screws.
4. Drill pocketholes in the top and bottom of each arm end, and
also at one end of the arm top. Secure the arm ends onto the arm
tops with pocketholes and then secure this onto the frame with
exterior wood glue and pocketholes.
GOOD TO KNOW: Before securing the arm tops you have the
option to round off the front corners.
GOOD TO KNOW: Double check that the height for mounting
the arm top onto the frame is 200mm.
5. Lay the seat slats onto the frame. Place flush against the back
and allow a 4mm gap between each slat. Use a jigsaw to cut a
rebate on the front slat to fit around to seat arms. Attach the
slats to the frame with exterior wood glue and nails.
Make the frame
6. Measure and mark 250mm in from the ends on both base side
beams. Drill 3 pocketholes into the uprights and secure 2 uprights
to each base side beam inside the mark. Make the two sides in this way.
GOOD TO KNOW: Use a carpenter’s square to make sure that
the uprights are mounted at a perfect 90-degree angle.
7. Secure the front and back beams onto the uprights with exterior
wood glue and 60mm screws.
8. Mark 32mm down from the top of each upright. This is to allow
for fitting the centre cross beam. Drill 2 pocketholes at each end of
the side beams and attach them to the inside centre of each upright.
9. Use a mitre saw, or a compass and jigsaw or tablesaw, to manually
cut the angled supports to fit on the base and top of the frame.
The angle should be between 40- and 45-degrees, but this can
be variable and it is best to manually measure, cut and fit.
Drill pocketholes at the ends to allow for attaching to the frame.
These supports add strength and stability.
Attach the roof
10. Attach the side trim with 50mm screws.
Cut the ends of the front and back and secure this onto the frame
with screws along the length of the board.
11. Place the centre support beam in the middle of the frame and
secure with 60mm screws at the ends into the side beams.
Adding the centre beam after the angled supports makes it
easier to attach the supports.
12. Now you can add the trim to the top.
Space evenly along the top and secure with 50mm screws.
13. To mount the swing to the frame, drill holes for the eye hooks
into the middle of the centre beam approx. 150mm in from the end.
Inserting an S-hook between the eye hooks and chain allows the
swing to move easier.
14. Drill 2 holes into the swing seat sides approx. 100mm in from
the ends and a hole in the seat back ends. Secure the eye hooks
and washers with nuts and attach the chain using carabiners.
Adjust the length of the chain to length.
A good height for the seat is around 420 to 450mm off the ground.
The chain for the seat back can be of a length that allows the seat
to swing upright, or longer is you want to seat to lean back slightly.
Use a quality exterior wood sealer such as Woodoc 30, 50 or 55
to protect and extend the life of your new pergola swing. The range
is available in clear or tinted sealer, or you can use Woodoc Gel Stain
in your choice of colour and apply a clear sealer over the top of this.
Follow the instructions on the tin for proper application. If you prefer
to paint the pergola swing, apply primer and paint suitable for outdoor wood.